Winter Care for Roses: Protecting Them from the Cold

February 12, 2025 Muzamil

The first frost of the season can send even seasoned gardeners into a panic. Those lush, blooming roses that stole the show all summer suddenly look vulnerable—leafless, brittle, and exposed. But here’s the truth: roses are tougher than they look. With a little prep, they can survive (and thrive!) through freezing temps, snow, and icy winds. Whether you’re growing hybrid teas in Minnesota or heirloom climbers in Vermont, this guide will walk you through exactly how to winterize your roses so they bounce back stronger than ever come spring.

Why Winter Care Matters

Roses don’t technically hibernate, but they do enter a dormant state to conserve energy. Winter threats aren’t just about cold—they’re about:

Freeze-thaw cycles that heave roots out of the soil.
Drying winds that dehydrate canes.
Rodents nibbling on tender stems under snow cover.

Neglect winter care, and you risk dead canes, stunted growth, or losing the plant entirely. But a few simple steps can make all the difference.

When to Start Winterizing Roses

Timing is critical. Begin after the first hard frost but before the ground freezes solid. Look for these cues:

Leaves have dropped (or turned reddish).
Daytime temps consistently below 50°F (10°C).
Plant is dormant (no new growth).

Regional Deadlines:

Zones 3–5: Late October–early November.
Zones 6–7: Mid-November–early December.
Zones 8–10: Minimal care needed; focus on pruning and mulch.

Step-by-Step Winter Prep for Roses

1. Stop Fertilizing (But Keep Watering)

6–8 weeks before frost: Halt all fertilization to discourage tender new growth.
Water deeply before the ground freezes. Hydrated roots handle cold better.

2. Clean Up and Prune Lightly

Remove fallen leaves and debris: Reduces hiding spots for pests/diseases.
Prune only dead/diseased wood: Save major pruning for spring to avoid frost damage.
Trim long canes on climbers to prevent wind whip.

Never prune healthy green stems in fall—it invites frost to kill back the plant.

3. Hill Up the Base (Mounding)

Mounding insulates the graft union (the vulnerable “knob” where stems meet roots):

Pile 8–12 inches of soil or compost around the base.
Add mulch (straw, shredded leaves, or pine needles) on top.

Pro Tip: Use soil from another part of the yard—don’t scrape it from around the plant.

4. Wrap or Bundle Canes

For hybrid teas and other tender roses:

Burlap wraps: Secure canes loosely with twine and wrap in burlap.
Rose cones: Ventilated foam cones filled with straw.
Cardboard boxes: Cut to size and weigh down with bricks.

Avoid plastic—it traps moisture and causes rot.

5. Protect Climbers and Standards

Climbers: Detach from supports, lay canes on the ground, and cover with mulch or soil.
Tree roses (standards): Wrap the graft union and entire stem with burlap or frost cloth.

Special Care for Container Roses

Potted roses are more vulnerable to freezing roots:

Move pots to an unheated garage, shed, or against a sheltered wall.
Insulate pots: Wrap with bubble wrap or burlap.
Water sparingly: Once a month to prevent desiccation.

Too heavy to move?: Bury the pot in the ground and mulch heavily.

Regional Winter Care Tips

Zones 3–5 (Brutal Winters)

Mound aggressively: Use soil + mulch up to 18 inches.
Add evergreen boughs for extra insulation and snow catch.
Skip pruning until spring.

Zones 6–7 (Moderate Winters)

Mound 6–8 inches of mulch.
Use rose collars (pre-made or DIY from chicken wire) filled with leaves.

Zones 8–10 (Mild Winters)

Prune in January: Remove ⅓ of old growth.
Mulch lightly to regulate soil temps.
Watch for pests—aphids and spider mites thrive in mild winters.

Common Winter Rose Mistakes

Ignoring the Graft Union: Burying or insulating this area is non-negotiable.
Using Plastic Sheeting: Traps moisture = mold and rot. Stick to breathable burlap.
Letting Soil Dry Out: Water evergreens and potted roses monthly.
Pruning Too Late: Sparks new growth that dies in frost.

Winter Pest Patrol

Even in cold months, critters threaten roses:

Voles/Mice: Surround the base with gravel or hardware cloth.
Deer: Spray with repellent or wrap plants in netting.
Fungal Spores: Apply dormant oil spray after leaf drop.

Spring Unwinding: When to Remove Protection

Timing: After the last frost when buds swell (usually early–mid spring).
How:
1. Remove mulch gradually to avoid shocking the plant.
2. Prune dead wood and shape the plant.
3. Feed with balanced fertilizer to kickstart growth.

Pro Tip: If a late frost hits after unwrapping, toss a bedsheet over roses overnight.

FAQs for Anxious Gardeners

Q: Can I use leaves from my oak tree as mulch?
A: Yes! Oak leaves are acidic and break down slowly, making great rose mulch.

Q: My rose canes turned black. Is it dead?
A: Scratch the stem. Green underneath = alive. Black/brown = trim back to healthy wood.

Q: Should I water roses in winter?
A: Only if the ground isn’t frozen and there’s no snow cover.

Final Thoughts: Winter is a Rose’s Reset

Winterizing roses isn’t about coddling—it’s about giving them a cozy blanket while they rest. The work you do now ensures they wake up strong, healthy, and ready to explode with blooms. So bundle up, grab your mulch, and tuck those roses in. Come spring, they’ll repay you with a show that’s worth every shiver.